We have found the Autodesk's clear to be fragile. are there any recommended resins and settings for more durable prints?
Different resins have different mechanical properties. Autodesk's Standard Prototyping Resin is designed for fine-detail precision more than for strength.
Make sure to test any resins with Ember's resin trays to make sure that they're compatible. To test compatibility, place a few drops of resin on the tray and observe if the tray changes in any way in the test area.
thank you for the quick reply. We are looking into the Vorex.
We are hoping to get relatively similar detail but just need slightly more durablility.
I was also wonder what kind of tinkering I should expect to do with setting, and has anyone had success with the materials from form labs.
I know this is an old thread, but I've been using the FormLabs tough resin with pretty good results also, I just add a little extra exposure time than we use for PR48
Good to know, Paul. Thanks for letting us know. I've been wanting to experiment with the Tough resin for a while. Do you find that this resin is compatible with Ember's resin tray - no cracking or crazing of the tray?
Hi Shalom - so far there have been no issues with the tray and I've used the resin quite a bit.
Glad to hear it. Thanks, Paul!
Does anyone have exposure time settings for MakerJuice G+ Clear?
Sorry still a novice…lol
If MJ G+ clear is anything like the G+ black, it will cloud the PDMS after about 1000 layers. See my post here from yesterday.
What kind of print settings have you guys found successful in order to print Formlabs Tough? I am printing this shaft (the PR48 shafts in my 3D-printed pump keep breaking after a while and I was looking for something stronger) and as you can see the results are not good. I experienced similar issues using the Form2 with tough resins, but not as exaggerated as in this case. I printed my part vertically with no supports, using a 25 micron profile and layer thickness.
Also, have you guys found the CPS Black resin to be any stronger than the clear one? I am going to give it a try to Formlabs’ Durable as well.
CPS Black (PR57K) is very rigid and brittle. I would not recommend it for a part that will see any significant load. I have been playing with a new tough resin, Molecule Pt. I find that it is very similar to the FormLabs in that it has a much higher elongation before fracture than CPS black. I have found that I need to compensate the model for size on critical features as it tends to oversize due to light bleed.
Are you lifting up for layer separation or rotating the tray?
In either case, since this is a tall, slender part, it may be that the shaft ‘slides’ to one side when it’s pressed into the resin and hasn’t eased it’s way back to center before the next layer is exposed. Each successive layer is then a little further off. When it reaches the last reduced section, the cross section area is smaller and so there is less area to force a ‘hydroplane’ effect, so it starts back closer to center. If this is the case, increasing the wait time before exposure should help.
Try creating a layersetings.csv file and adding a slightly longer wait time with each layer as you get about halfway through.
You can also try slowing down the Z approach to 100ms.
That makes a lot of sense. I tried the Formlabs Durable resin and the results were much better (with the same settings that I used with Tough). Still, I did not get a perfect shaft so I am going to go ahead and implement the changes you recommended me. Thanks!
I haven’t tried the Durable. Is it less brittle than the CPS clear (PR48)?
Definitely less brittle than PR48. I would say it is somewhere in between PR48 and Tough.