Pdms-friendly resins


#1

Hi!

Please post your experiences with different resins. Which resin have you used clouded PDMS at a very low rate? The one that finished at least one bottle of resin. And which resin brand makes your tray cloud after few prints?

Here’s mine:

So far I have used Madesolid Vorex (white) and the FUN TO DO Deep black resin. In my experience with the 2 brands I mentioned, I have observed that the clouding of the PDMS vary on the resin; Madesolid is good since it clouds the PDMS at a very low rate. I have printed 20 models but so far the pdms is still very clear. However, Madesolid is already out of business.

The second resin I have used just recently is the FUN TO DO deep black resin. The PDMS window only lasted 3 succesful prints; after that, my prints had bad output until the tray became completely unusable. I only printed around 750-800 layers at 100 microns to sum up the 3 prints. FTD deep black clouds the PDMS window at a very very high rate.

I just wish someone designs a tray to have a pdms recoat feature. Or probably we can all chip in and have someone design it for us?


#2

Autodesk/CPS PR57 colored resins don’t cloud PDMS, and neither do the IC131 / IC142 casting resins, although all these resin do very slowly diffuse UV blockers into the PDMS. If you keep the resin away from the PDMS between jobs, it should last for months.

PR48 (Standard Clear) has much higher levels of UV blockers because it’s clear, so it reduces the UV transmission of PDMS much more quickly (within 24 hours if left in a tray continuously).

B9 casting resins (Yellow/Emerald/Cherry) quickly degrade trays as well.


#3

hi Owen
can it be helpful that i place the FEP teflon layer on PDMS window for reducing damage ?


#4

:face_with_raised_eyebrow::face_with_raised_eyebrow::face_with_raised_eyebrow:???


#5

I like the idea…

The PDMS clouding is caused by the resins ‘soaking’ in, so protecting the PDMS seems like it could work. I’m just not sure how you would hold it in place.

Perhaps you can remove the existing DPMS window, stretch the FEP over it, and replace it. You would have to be sure to remove all trapped air, and likely need to cut out for the PDMS mounting posts first. A bit of trial and error should be expected.


#6

thank u scott
i will try this and notify u


#7

I have tried with 20 different FEP, but all failed. FEP sheets do not degrade at all, but models stick too much on it. Definition of Non-Stick for FEP and PDMS are totally different.


#8

This doesn’t bode well for my future plans…

Did you stick with the tray rotation or try lifting straight up between layers? The Ember is the only printer I know of that uses rotation to separate - all others use some form of lift / tilt.


#9

I tried both rotation and lifting straight up. Jam on the rotation because of stick and huge mess on the lifting straight up.


#10

I wondered about that… :frowning:

I have toyed with the idea of FEP, and was hoping to avoid having to make major modifications to the printer to make it work.

I guess I will have to either skip it or make custom trays that I can mount in a way that allows the tray to tilt when lifting.

Alternatively, we could adapt the rotary mechanism to swipe a thin arm across the top of the FEP film once the build head raises up to clear it.


#11

Ive printed FSL3D Black flexible super fast low rez with good success
I dont think it clouded?


#12

Instead of buying new trays, is there a way to just replace the existing PDMS window?

I only get 8 prints per tray with the PR 48 and after each print session I tip it so the resin isn’t soaking the window…

@OwenSmithyman @scott_chabineau


#13

I’ve always wanted to try this: