Fun To Do 'Snow White'


First part using FTD Snow White.

Very fast cure time (current exposure settings of 0.6sec for 100um / 0.45sec for 50um).
Thin (lower viscosity) so all ApprochWaitMS setting can be reduced.
Not terribly brittle off the machine. I haven’t tried to Post Cure the part yet.

VERY good print resolution!!!

FYI - in the last image below, the designed hole diameter is 0.45mm. With a small amount of compensation I am sure I can get this on size. All the holes are very clean all the way through too.


@scott_chabineau I just got the Fun To Do deep black. Should I apply the same exposure settings? The tray jams at first layer with the standard clear setting. I guess the exposure was too high using the default standard clear setting.


I haven’t tried the FTD black yet (I do have a bottle of it) so it’s hard to say. If it’s anything like the white, then yes. Try changing the first layer and burn-in layers to have 1.0 RPM separation speed. Also turn the exposure way down to 0.8 or less for the 1st and B.I. layers. If your slices are 50um try 0.45 sec for the model layers. You may be able to go lower for thinner slices.

Axel Reeve — [Ember Research Hub] [Materials] Fun To Do ‘Snow White’ —

April 22 @scott_chabineau I just got the Fun To Do deep black. Should I apply the same exposure settings? The tray jams at first layer with the standard clear setting. I guess the exposure was too high using the default standard clear setting.
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Hi Scott! An update to the FTD deep black. I did what you said about turning the exposure way down to 0.8 seconds in the 1st and burn in layers; I also changed the first layer and burn-in layers to have 1.0 RPM separation speed… It worked! It doesn’t jam the tray during the first layer anymore. And the print detail is crisp, it is very good!

However, after 3 successful prints at 100 microns; and each print with only 258 layers or total of 774 layers in all 3 prints, I noticed that the NEW tray had very visible clouds/blurs. I’m new to the ember, but is this really the longevity of the PDMS?

Each print runs 31 minutes. Please note that I am also using a swiper. Technically, I just had 1 hour and 33 minutes of print using FTD deep black in a new tray, and it now has visible PDMS clouding. Ive been using madesolid vorex white in another tray, Ive had more than 20 print with it and until now, the PDMS is still clear.

I have also noticed that FTD is less viscous than madesolid vorex.


This is how my tray looks after 3 succesful prints. Unbelievable!


Yeah, unfortunately some resins will quickly cloud PDMS. @Yianni-VJ said he was able to get rid of clouding by using acetone, but your mileage may vary, since clouding happens when resin cures inside the pores of the PDMS. He’s also been experimenting with alternatives to PDMS, such as FEP, which may resist clouding better.


Yes I have been using acetone too. I’m also using microfiber cloth to wipe the acetone on the pdms window.

How about the black resin from Autodesk/CPS. Does it cloud the window fast? Or will it finish one bottle before it needs replacement. I’m always printing 260-300 layers at 100 microns. Is the black resin from autodesk brittle or hard? Thanks Owen!


All the PR57 resins (including black) are very PDMS-friendly and won’t cloud the window. The UV blockers will very slowly reduce the window’s light transmission ability over time whenever the resin is in contact with the window, but that will take months if you make sure not to leave the resin in the tray between prints (or you can use Scott’s tray tilt block). It’s hard and somewhat brittle, but not overly so. (Although I suppose it depends what you’re trying to do.)

But note that the UV blockers in PR48 (Standard Clear) reduce the window’s light transmission ability much more quickly, so don’t think of it as being in the same category as the PR57 resins.


I just tried my first large print with the FTD Snow white and found the exact issue you have. The FTD reacts too quickly with the PDMS and clouds it before the print is complete (955 layers @ 100um). I really like the FTD resolution and print speeds, so I am going to head over to @Yannis_Vauthier 's post on creating an FEP window and see what trouble I can stir up over there :wink:


I tried 4-5 different FEP films, but they all failed. They stick too much and does not release hardened resin to the print head. Maybe you will be more successful than I am. Here are some FEP Film suppliers: (They have FEP with adhesive backing)

Please let us know if you are more successful with any of them.


@scott_chabineau ,
Are you going to get the FEP with adhesive back and just stick it on the pdms of a new tray? Will the squeegee swiper eventually scratch the surface of the FEP?

Did you use the one with adhesive backing?


Yes, I have used adhesive backing. It did not work for me. FEP does get scratch if you do not be careful. You should not use swiper with FEP. Slide will not separate harden resin from FEP.


Thanks for the heads up about not using swiper with FEP. Did you change your setting like Yianni did?


I spent about 2 months trying ALL kinds of settings including Yianni’s settings. Like I said before, you are welcome to try FEP films. CSHyde has them for really cheap price. You may get more lucky than I am.


Hey you guys !

I would love to continue my testing with FEP on Ember but time is a little scarce these days… I have a new plan of approach to the issue, but it involves drilling, so I want to be in the right mood for invasive procedures :slight_smile:

I am debating with myself regarding supported or unsupported FEP.
Supported with have probs with vacuum forces during detachment and needs something to counteract them. Unsupported will have a little bulge and needs tensioning to be more tight and precise.

Both require a ridiculous amount of precision in regards of focusing. I don’t want to touch the focus dial of the projector, FEP has to be at the exact height PDMS is.

One thing is for sure, rotation mechanism needs to be disabled.

Share your thoughts and photos!


Time is always precious! I could make a full-time job out of the things I ‘want’ to do with this printer.

I’ve been on vacation so I’ve only spent a few hours working on a concept that would replace the PDMS window with an unsupported FEP - with tension. I plan it to just ‘bolt’ in with the height set correctly and everything. The first prototype frames will be Printed on the Ember, but I suspect the parts will need to be machined from aluminum for strength in a production version.

I’ll post some images on Monday when I’m back in the office.