BlueCast castable resin... Anybody have setting recommendations?


#1

Hi all,

At a recent jewellery trade-fair I noticed a lot of printer manufactures were using an Italian resin called ‘BlueCast’.

People were using it very sucessfully in the Form2, Asiga, and lots of other new £10,000+ machines which were using the exact same LED projector as the Ember, to great effect.

So I’m going to give the resin a go, and wondered if anybody else had tried it and had any experience or advice regarding the exposure settings.

Thanks!
-Barry


#2

hi
i work with bluecast resin and i have to say that the LS resin (low shrinkage)is fully match with ember and its resin tray.
also casting results are great.
and for print setting use around 2.4 sec for layer exposure time.


#3

Hi
what kind of investment you using? it needs to be cured ? is this bluecast a better resin then the CPS IC 142?
johan


#4

Hi johan
bluecast LS model needs to be cured for 1 hour and absolutely has better casting result into IC142.
i use gypsum casting.


#5

Thank you

Johan


#6

Hi Mohammad

How is it with lettering in models? Does it cast?

johan

Johan Schutte

Gold Dust Jewellery

403-526-0467


#7

Hi @Mohammad_Hasan_Ebrah

Great to hear it prints and casts well.

I’ve spoken to the makers of the resin, and they think their S+ resin, which is a version of BlueCast Original, should work best in the Ember.

They developed it for the Slash+ printer, but used an Ember during development of the resin and say they had great results with it.

I’m ordering some of it now, but it’s very useful to know that the Original BlueCast works well too.

I’ll let you know how I get on with the S+ variant.

Here’s a link for anybody interested:
BlueCast S+ resin

-Barry


#8

thanks barry


#9

I am really interested in BlueCast Resin as well. Please let us know BlueCast Resin work out. Thanks.

Patrick


#10

Hi @Mohammad_Hasan_Ebrah ,

Do you happen to have json settings file for the Bluecast LS? (You can export resin settings from PrintStudio and they save as a json file).

Turns out the makers don’t have Ember settings (they had a friend test the ember, and don’t have the settings), so it would be great to get somebodies settings instead of wasting resin experimenting. I suspect the LS and S+ settings will be very similar.

Lastly, do you happen to heat your resin? I notice it recommended to shake and re-head before use on the bottle…

Thanks,
-Barry


#11

Barry & Mohammad,

I am trying to see if I can switch to Bluecast resin. Currently, I am using B9 Yellow, and I need to switch the resin. Can I ask you few questions?

Is Bluecast LS thick or thin resin viscosity wise compare to CPS Resins?

Is Bluecast LS work ok with PDMS window? B9Yellow can be printed about 4 times before it gets clouded.

Do they cast well? If possible, can you post any picture?

Thank you so much for your help!

Patrick


#12

Hi @patrickleephoto,

I’m running tests at the moment.

I’ve got the BlueCast S+, not the LS, so I can’t comment on LS.

The S+ seems very light/thin, comparable to the CPS black.

Have you tried Emerald? I found it much much less finiky then the Yellow.

Also, I think the real KEY thing with any of the resins, is to minimise the time the resin sits on the PDMS.

I now never print over night, as that meanst that the resin was sitting on the PDMS for hours… I print in the morning, and tilt my trays so the resin runs off the PDMS afterwards… and as a result, my trays now last months.

I’ll let you know how I get on with the S+, but I’m happy to post a llnk to my Emerald settings if you want to try it.

I’ve also found the IC-142 castable resin to be really really great at printing, but I’ve only found one caster that likes it… which is why I’m trying the S+, as I believe it’s much easier to cast.

-Barry


#13

That’s the first print attempts. 1.5 second exposure on the left, and 1s on the right. I think I’m still over-exposing it. 25um layer thickness.

Certainly it prints pretty well. I’m trying a ring now to see how it goes.


#14

WOW. Thank you so much for the information!

Patrick


#15

This is how I store my resin overnight…

I turn off the machine, angle the tray by sitting it on an old plastic pot, move the swiper so that it doesn’t drop on the PDMS, and that way the PDMS is free of resin (obviously I also close the door, I’ve just opened it to show more clearly).

You just need to be careful not to turn on the machine again before putting the tray back into position… as when you turn it on, it usually attempts to rotate and home the tray, which would possibly spill the resin if you were unlucky.


#16

I knew about resin should not touch the PDMS overnight, but never actually tried it. I will start doing it tonight.

And for B9C Green, does that cast better than B9C Yellow?

Thank you,

Patrick


#17

Yep - always store the trays so that the resin doesn’t cover the PDMS. I will usually take the wiper and wipe it off too as I store it.

Here was my solution:


#18

@patrickleephoto
Another point regarding tray life - sometimes the resins just aren’t very compatible with the PDMS. I have a resin I use that is tough, but I can only get about 6-10 tall prints out of it (even stored properly overnight). I can physically see the clouding increase with each print.

It usually takes a couple of months of printing to achieve the same effect using compatible resins.


#19

I downloaded your Tray Support STL file and printed it yesterday. I will properly store resin/tray from now on. Thank you so much for your nice little Tray Tilt Block!

Patrick